Milan/Paris/Brussels

Lot to report - so much has happened, my brain is swirling.

Came over from Turin on Monday morning & found a hotel pretty quickly. Not too fancy but cheap. Just my style. After getting settled went out to explore and stopped in for a sandwich only with a middle Eastern flair. A huge spit of beef cooking while the cook cuts off hunks of meat, puts it into bread w/ veggies & chile sauce. Good & cheap.

While there, a young Pakistani named Dani, started a conversation with us. He said he and others always wanted to go to America but now, he feels America does not want him. His cousin lives in the Bay area but he does not feel welcome & knows everything changed on 9/11. I tried to convince him that America still wanted him to visit but I wondered how difficult a visa would be for someone like him. I'm guessing not to easy. But it was a fun conversation til he asked if I voted for Bush. No one I have met here, in 2005 or this trip has any use for W. They just cannot believe that America would have someone like him as our leader. I'm getting a bit tired trying to explain. But it is great to discuss these kinds of things with people and I have found it always seems like we get along great and would just hope our leaders could do a bit of a better job.

Tim & I headed to the show about 6 & and; I was convinced we were going to have to get lucky to get to the right spot. But I forgot. Tim has done this many times and knows his way around pretty good. So we ended up at the Dutch Forum with plenty of time to spare.

We agree that we would really like to see the show but if the price is too high, we pass. After several we finally got 2 on the floor for 45 euros. The guy was a tough negotiator but when we prepared to walk from the deal he finally accepted. The scalpers were out in force & were very aggressive but we were each in.

Tim always must find a place to stash the bag containing the posters before the show in some place where they won't be stolen. As he was trying to get some help from the local security an Italian policeman asked what he needed. When Tim explained, the kindly officer showed him where he could safely put the bag. He got in after the first song and all was good.

The show was one of the best I have ever seen. Some shows seem to have an energy or spirit the other shows lack. It seems people standing on the floor, the age of the crowd and the band's energy all combine to produce those moments which make all the travel, expense and lost sleep seem like such small prices to pay. It was extrordinary. Here' the setlist http://my.execpc.com/~billp61/042707s.html

The Italian crowd seemed to feel lucky to be there & roared their approval when Theme For The Common Man started. Then the band kicked into Cat's In The Cradle and things started to rock. When they recognized It Ain't Me, Babe, Bob and the boys grabbed hold and didn't let loose. When Tom Thumbs Blues started Tim said this was the best concert he'd seen so far, I nodded my head and thought this is why I came.

It's Alright, Ma was next and even though I have heard this chestnut more than most it had an urgency and emotion that was both rare & exciting. The guitar work was thrilling. The lead soaring, the 2nd guitar charging and everyone else hanging on for dear life. It I had any question about the show, this song quelled any doubts. I was staggered that such an old song, sung by a person who qualifies for Social Security could bring so much passion and fire. The crowd was going nuts and I thought who can blame them.

The people on the floor seem to bring the energy up and then it feeds to the band & the back in some sort of a self-reinforcing closed loop of energy & excitement. To Ramona was next & while this song is always a treat tonight it seemed to lack any buildup or climax but just sorted of meandered along. Nice but nothing to come to Italy for.

Tim said he just hoped to hear Nettie Moore & When The Deal Goes Down. I hoped he got his wish - because he's a great guy but also because they are among my favorites as well.

After a fun and appreciated Rollin' & Tumblin' he launched into Spirit On The Water. If memory serves the crowd was clapping and really into the guitar and vocals. Tim said he sang a verse twice on Stuck in Mobile but if he did, I missed it. Another song I have heard so many times but tonight the band was right on the money & Bob seemed to be living the words all over again, whatever it means.

Desolation Row, usually elicts a grown from me but - you guessed it - tonights version seemed even more biting and hard hitting. Enjoyed it from the beginning to end. Next came I'll Be Your Baby Tonight and my mind went to Rick & I singing this simple, heart-felt song and trying to get it right. Bob again seemed to be rembering the emotion he had when writting it and the crowd loved it.

Tim then had his first wish granted as When The Deal Goes Down started. It was sublime and the lighters came out - a throwback to the Before The Flood tour. It seemed a nice touch.

Great finish including Nettie Moore - and then ending the main show with Rolling Stone. Seemed to work much better than Blowin' In The Wind choice in Turin. The crowd was predictably going wild but we started out to get set for the poster buyers.

Sure enough; Tim's bag was right were he left it and he got me set up in what we hoped would be a prime spot. No other poster sellers but tons of tee shirts. I had a tough time knowing what to say. I figured most knew English but wondered what I'd think if there was some guy outside the Fox yelling in Italian something about posters.

People would say cuanto or ask how much & I'd try to answer but usually just hold up 5 fingers. They got the message and started buying like mad. I sold 120 or so & didn't discount more than 10. It's wild, like a feeding frenzy. They're trying to buy & I'm trying to take their money and get the right change back. Mostly I did but occasionally they would point out they had given me a 20 & were due some change. I'd try to apologize & then move them out of the way so the next batch could fling Euro notes at me.

Many young people wanted a poster and if they were old enough they bought one but sometimes their parents dug down for that strong currency - Tim said dollars used to be welcome but now the value has dropped too low.

So the crowd was gone & I suggested one of the waiting taxis but Tim thought there might be a chance to grab a ride with someone heading back to the city center. But no luck and I wondered if there would be a way back. Luckily another cab rolled up, we hopped in and watched the meter start to cut into our profits. Grabbed a Jack Daniels for me and a couple of beers for Tim and since the place was closing, stood outside on the sidewalk talking to some British folks who had been to the show.

Then we have a conversation with a guy from Naples who was holding one of our posters he had bought from us earlier. He didn't speak any English, but Tim understands and can communicate and I thought how odd. An Italian who doesn't understand English but loves Dylan. Hard to figure.

There is construction everywhere. Streets are torn up, cranes dot the skyline and buildings are being redone or fixed up. It is quite amazing. Wonder if it's due to the EU or some other cause.

Then came Stuck in Milano with the Zurich blues Again. Actually it was the first time and was caused by Tim's desire to avoid Switzerland & their tough border agents. What he does is can rub some countries the wrong way and I guess the Swiss are in that camp. I was supposed to go to Florence but called an audible and decided to head back to Paris in anticipation of setting up the last leg of the tour. We finally got on a train to Paris and pulled in just before midnight.

On the way we met a Chinese guy who turned out to be a basic researcher for an institute who uses satellite imagry to study volcanos. He was in Italy because they have 12 active volcanos. Fasinating conversation about the US, China & the world.

He said the US should not fear China, that China has never invaded another country and all they want is to build on their 5000 year old culture. He said harmony and solidarity were the most important goals and dontrasted that with the US & Europe where diversity and individuals were more highly prized. He said they could own building & businesses but not the land, that belonged to everyone. I got his email and hope Jerry can begin a dialogue with him prior to visiting. It was a wonderful conversation and I thought how fortunate to have had the chance to visit.

After an overnight in Paris we headed to Brussels where I am now. All around Europe are internet cafes. You can duck in, sign on & do whatever. In one cafe near the Sorborne in Paris almost all of the users where playing some kind of shooting game.

Tomorrow we're off to Mannheim and another show. Then Leipzig and Berlin and back to the land of Coca-Cola.

I really feel like each visit helps me get a bit better understanding of the people here and the other travellers like me. The more I learn, however, the less I feel I now. Seems like a contradiction but is real none the less.

More later.