I put these together for Jerry and his friend Kevin who hope to take a tour this summer.
- always learn hello, thank you, do you speak English and more in the local language
- ask for help - especially in the train station, finding better connections, etc.
- figure out the local transit - various choices, some underground, some ground level trains (trams) & busses. intercity trains do what they say.
- get a list of youth hostels for the cities you're visiting - it is better once you have a place to sleep and stow your stuff
- consider couch surfing
- use internet cafes for communication with your people, especially your parents
- bottled water is no gas, like you know and with gas which is carbonated. check.
- watch out for traffic, trams, busses, bikes, cars, taxis, etc. It can lull you into a comfortable stance and it just takes one time, walking before you think. Don't do it.
- be ready to get off the train and on the train, they tend to leave when they should so it works fine, if you're ready. Pack up your stuff 10 min. before you are due to arrive. Try to get to the right track, it is often confusing, as early as practical - say 20 minutes. If you have 30 you have time to find the wrong track twice and still make it. I have done this.
- plan at least a couple of days in advance where you plan to stay, but be ready to change if something better presents itself. The biggest hassle is trying to find a decent place that won't break your wallet on a daily basis. Planning equals better room at less cost. Dumping your bag and then getting to it, is nice.
- talk to locals, find a reason, helps if you know a couple of words, you will probably remember the people you meet and the conversations you have as the best part of the trip. Force yourself to do it. It isn't easy to start but once you do start, it is easy. Take their picture, get their email. Make friends.
- Take some St. Louis post cards - you can get them in the airport - then when you are telling people about your home, show them one. Leave it with new friends.
- It is really fun to anticipate the trip. Reading tour books, watching travel shows on TV and getting ideas for your trip are very worthwhile and will help you have a great time.
- Think about visiting family. They will really enjoy it and you will probably have a great time.
attraction
- There are often city passes that get you museums, transit and attractions at a very low price, if you are doing a bunch of stuff in one place.
- Train time is eating time (pick up something in the station - don't forget your water or other drink), reading time (whatever you like - including info on the upcoming city), writing time (your journal, post cards, etc), relaxing, talking and listening to music. Just don't forget to know where you are and what station you want off at.
- The open busses that run you around a town can be nice if you go by things/places you want to visit.
Wednesday, May 09, 2007
Sunday, May 06, 2007
Reflections on Europe 2007
What a time.
Incredible people - In chronological order
Christine in Dusseldorf who was my 1st couch surfing host. Even though it was for less than a day I believe I made a friend who I will see again and who shares a love of great music. My only regret, really of the entire trip, is that I was unable to get her into the show in Dusseldorf. Next time for sure. It was heartbreaking to hear of her treatment by our security people in Atlanta. It just didn't seem real.
The fellow in Stuttgart, Malcom, I bought my ticket from. He said he had been reading and rereading a book about a guy who goes back in time and lives or visits the Cahokia Mounds. I'm reading everything I can about European history and travel and he's checking out our neighborhood 1000 years ago (guessing at the date).
Patrick, Julia, Hannah and the whole family in Whyl. The most enjoyable and happy time of my trip. The entire family put their collective arms around me and gave a huge hug. I am still enjoying the wonderful feelings and emotions that came from meeting family, even if it is a bit distant. They welcomed me into their home and their lives and I am the richer for it. My heart is full of the love their family has for each other and I am so grateful they let me enjoy my too brief time with them. Thanks for the wondeful bar-b-que, great tour of the Kaisersaal and the bottle of wine. It was delicious.
Evelyne, Paul & Ludmilla. It was so great to see them again. The election to pick the final 2 for President of France was being decided and it was very exciting. I really enjoy the walks we take around Vittel. It is a beautiful town and it gives us a chance to talk. We had a wonderful but again too brief visit and then it was on the train again.
Antoine in Paris. He has now hosted over 100 couch surfers. He is into it, in a major way. It is such an interesting concept. Changing the world, one couch at a time. Here is there web site. Check it out. http://www.couchsurfing.com/
Antoine made me feel welcome in his home and I really enjoyed our time together. Benjamin & Sasha were great concert mates. It was wonderful meeting such interesting and intelligent young people who had made the effort to see a wonderful show
The Argentinian doctor, Mathias, I met on the night train from Paris to Milan. What a nice guy, ready to discuss anything and always with a smile and a good outlook. He was also visiting family all over Europe. It is really a great idea. I should have gotten his email, I would love talk with him again.
Tim in Turin, Milan, Paris, Brussels, Mannheim, & Leipzig. We bumped into each other on the tram platform heading for the show. It was so good to see him again. It is so hard to categorize Tim. Passionate about Dylan, a great businessman (although I'm sure this is making him cringe), the most knowledgeable person I've ever met on ancient Rome & Greece, a true road warrior, flexible, fair, honest and generous. He is a great friend and it was such a treat to bump into him in 2005 and then again this trip in Torino. He is a great road partner. And a really great person. Thanks Tim.
The Chinese fellow - Julio - was his westernized name, who does basic research on volcanoes using satellite imagery. The value, to me, of speaking with Germans, French, Italians, Argentinians, Chinese, etc. was a great education and fun to boot.
The scouts in Brussels, so excited, so numerous. I bet they had a great time. Marching in front of the building that could have been a set for Saving Private Ryan. The contrast was stunning.
Lis. She is exciting, interesting, full of life and energy, wonderful to be around and a person who tries to help people get along better. She got me into a front row ticket, showed me the mountain on witches day and then was a great tour guide. Our time seemed like it was both too short - it was - but also like we have known each other for sometime. Like we had spent many days together when we just met.
Freddy from Torino, Rene Bill from Zurich, Lutz from Berlin, Hans from Amsterdam, Benjamin from Bordeaux, Sasha from Berlin, all Bob fans to varying degrees that I met and enjoyed.
Bob Dylan is the most interesting and vital performer going today (ok that's a bit subjective). The shows in Milan, Leipzig and Mannheim were great. Paris, Turin and Stuttgart were very good. He is such an inspiration. Still going strong at 65. Releasing new albums that rival his best work, while keeping up a grueling road schedule. Add in the radio show, movies, etc. and I just want to emulate his creativity, drive and passion.
It was all a pleasure - rolling through the beautiful countriside, the vibrant and busy cities, the museums and music, the efficient and cost-effective train and mass transit systems, the friendly, helpful people, the food, the weather - it's just so much fun.
I learned that Europe is a diverse, engaging and rockin' continent. Some of the things I'll miss besides the people:
- jumping a train to some new destination in the morning
- croissants
- walking around and exploring new and interesting places
- solid transit - between and within cities
- the Herald Tribune
- Internet cafes
- coffee
- sidewalk cafes
Anyone reading this should go to Europe, whenever you can. Read and watch Rick Steves and then jump in. The water is great!
Incredible people - In chronological order
Christine in Dusseldorf who was my 1st couch surfing host. Even though it was for less than a day I believe I made a friend who I will see again and who shares a love of great music. My only regret, really of the entire trip, is that I was unable to get her into the show in Dusseldorf. Next time for sure. It was heartbreaking to hear of her treatment by our security people in Atlanta. It just didn't seem real.
The fellow in Stuttgart, Malcom, I bought my ticket from. He said he had been reading and rereading a book about a guy who goes back in time and lives or visits the Cahokia Mounds. I'm reading everything I can about European history and travel and he's checking out our neighborhood 1000 years ago (guessing at the date).
Patrick, Julia, Hannah and the whole family in Whyl. The most enjoyable and happy time of my trip. The entire family put their collective arms around me and gave a huge hug. I am still enjoying the wonderful feelings and emotions that came from meeting family, even if it is a bit distant. They welcomed me into their home and their lives and I am the richer for it. My heart is full of the love their family has for each other and I am so grateful they let me enjoy my too brief time with them. Thanks for the wondeful bar-b-que, great tour of the Kaisersaal and the bottle of wine. It was delicious.
Evelyne, Paul & Ludmilla. It was so great to see them again. The election to pick the final 2 for President of France was being decided and it was very exciting. I really enjoy the walks we take around Vittel. It is a beautiful town and it gives us a chance to talk. We had a wonderful but again too brief visit and then it was on the train again.
Antoine in Paris. He has now hosted over 100 couch surfers. He is into it, in a major way. It is such an interesting concept. Changing the world, one couch at a time. Here is there web site. Check it out. http://www.couchsurfing.com/
Antoine made me feel welcome in his home and I really enjoyed our time together. Benjamin & Sasha were great concert mates. It was wonderful meeting such interesting and intelligent young people who had made the effort to see a wonderful show
The Argentinian doctor, Mathias, I met on the night train from Paris to Milan. What a nice guy, ready to discuss anything and always with a smile and a good outlook. He was also visiting family all over Europe. It is really a great idea. I should have gotten his email, I would love talk with him again.
Tim in Turin, Milan, Paris, Brussels, Mannheim, & Leipzig. We bumped into each other on the tram platform heading for the show. It was so good to see him again. It is so hard to categorize Tim. Passionate about Dylan, a great businessman (although I'm sure this is making him cringe), the most knowledgeable person I've ever met on ancient Rome & Greece, a true road warrior, flexible, fair, honest and generous. He is a great friend and it was such a treat to bump into him in 2005 and then again this trip in Torino. He is a great road partner. And a really great person. Thanks Tim.
The Chinese fellow - Julio - was his westernized name, who does basic research on volcanoes using satellite imagery. The value, to me, of speaking with Germans, French, Italians, Argentinians, Chinese, etc. was a great education and fun to boot.
The scouts in Brussels, so excited, so numerous. I bet they had a great time. Marching in front of the building that could have been a set for Saving Private Ryan. The contrast was stunning.
Lis. She is exciting, interesting, full of life and energy, wonderful to be around and a person who tries to help people get along better. She got me into a front row ticket, showed me the mountain on witches day and then was a great tour guide. Our time seemed like it was both too short - it was - but also like we have known each other for sometime. Like we had spent many days together when we just met.
Freddy from Torino, Rene Bill from Zurich, Lutz from Berlin, Hans from Amsterdam, Benjamin from Bordeaux, Sasha from Berlin, all Bob fans to varying degrees that I met and enjoyed.
Bob Dylan is the most interesting and vital performer going today (ok that's a bit subjective). The shows in Milan, Leipzig and Mannheim were great. Paris, Turin and Stuttgart were very good. He is such an inspiration. Still going strong at 65. Releasing new albums that rival his best work, while keeping up a grueling road schedule. Add in the radio show, movies, etc. and I just want to emulate his creativity, drive and passion.
It was all a pleasure - rolling through the beautiful countriside, the vibrant and busy cities, the museums and music, the efficient and cost-effective train and mass transit systems, the friendly, helpful people, the food, the weather - it's just so much fun.
I learned that Europe is a diverse, engaging and rockin' continent. Some of the things I'll miss besides the people:
- jumping a train to some new destination in the morning
- croissants
- walking around and exploring new and interesting places
- solid transit - between and within cities
- the Herald Tribune
- Internet cafes
- coffee
- sidewalk cafes
Anyone reading this should go to Europe, whenever you can. Read and watch Rick Steves and then jump in. The water is great!
Leipzig & Berlin
So we got to Leipzig and found a hotel.
Then off to the show but tickets were not being sold by anyone we could find. We ended up buying tickets from the box office - 53 euros each - ouch. But the show was great. Here's the set list
http://my.execpc.com/%7ebillp61/050207s.html
The best part of the show were the different songs, most of which I had not heard on this tour. The show was great but even though it was a general admission show with people standing on the floor, the energy did not seem to be there like it was in Milano. Still a wonderful show and happy I paid full price.
After the show, got set up to sell posters but it was not a crowd that wanted to spend any more money. Tim did OK but my sales stunk. Oh well, they can't be all great sales nights.
I had gotten a text message from Lis saying she would be coming to Berlin. We had a great visit and she showed me all over Berlin. It was a wonderful way to end an amazing trip. Can't wait to do it again!
Then off to the show but tickets were not being sold by anyone we could find. We ended up buying tickets from the box office - 53 euros each - ouch. But the show was great. Here's the set list
http://my.execpc.com/%7ebillp61/050207s.html
The best part of the show were the different songs, most of which I had not heard on this tour. The show was great but even though it was a general admission show with people standing on the floor, the energy did not seem to be there like it was in Milano. Still a wonderful show and happy I paid full price.
After the show, got set up to sell posters but it was not a crowd that wanted to spend any more money. Tim did OK but my sales stunk. Oh well, they can't be all great sales nights.
I had gotten a text message from Lis saying she would be coming to Berlin. We had a great visit and she showed me all over Berlin. It was a wonderful way to end an amazing trip. Can't wait to do it again!
Tuesday, May 01, 2007
Brussels/Mannheim/Heidleburg
There is a lot to report.
After ending up in Brussels we had a day off and a decent hotel. While there, looking down we noticed thousands of scouts, many singing or chanting on their way to the train station. There was a huge hole in the sidewalk where there was construction going on and it looked like the throng would force one of the scouts to fall in. So we went down and fixed the barricade, doing our good deed for the day. Tim heard somewhere there would be a 100,000 scouts at their camp and I think we saw most of them.
The train from Brussels to Köln (Cologne) was quiet, smooth and comfortable. Trains leave on time and mostly arrive on time, except Italy, where they seem much more relaxed about time.
It is such a bother changing trains for Tim. He has so many posters that it is always a challenge, getting the bags off, loading them on the trolley and then finding the next train, and reversing the process. But he has done it so many times it is just part of the deal.
Got to Mannheim late and went straight to the show. Tim warned me it might be the toughest place in terms of police and other sellers. He said it should be OK but he made me wonder if this might be a night where the authorities and I would have a chat.
He took off to try to find a place to stash the posters and I started looking for a ticket. It is so strange to go the arena, without a ticket, but almost always coming up with one. Tonight would be no exception.
After talking to a few people who wanted face value I turned and started walking towards the other entrance. In seconds I spotted a lady who was holding a ticket in her hand and she quickly spotted me and we started to speak. She told me her friend cancelled at the last minute and she wanted to sell a 70 euro ticket for 50.
My normal idea is to pay no more than 40, so I asked if it was a good ticket. She said yes, front row. I had a look and could not tell for sure but it did say the front row of section 101 so I thought it would at least be the front row of something.
I paid her 40 and said I would see her inside. Sure enough 101 was in the very front, on the floor, and I just kept walking until I was at the front row. I could not believe my good fortune. Sitting in the next seat, the lady I bought the ticket from, was Lis. We had a very nice conversation during the show. I was as interested in talking with her as the show but it was an incredible show. The front row is very nice and I can safely recommend it.
So I told her I needed to leave the show a bit early to sell posters but that I would like to buy her a drink. I thought it would be too late that night but she said no, it was a holiday the next day and tonight was very special, witches night.
She said she lived in Heidleburg and we could go there, climb a mountain with other people and have an interesting sight. Little did I know. Climbing the mountain sounded like a bad idea but I thought there was a chance for romance, not to mention a night without a hotel bill.
So Tim, Lis and I piled into her Volkswagon convertible and headed to Heidleburg. Lis explained that witches night is a 2000 year old tradition and Tim, who is a student of history, said it could not be 2000 years. So after a bit of discussion I suggested we agree to disagree and then got to Lis´s house.
It was a huge house that has her office on the ground floor, she is an attorney, and then her living area on the 2nd floor with another apartment for her neice on the 3rd. It was wild. Huge ceilings, porches, hardwood floors - maybe original and a feeling of elegance. She had an entire wall filled with books and I thought this is a lady who likes to read and is intelligent.
As she changed to her hiking boots I tried to learn a bit more about what was coming but all she said was that many people, especially the yooung, do this every April 30th and on the top of the mountain was a structure built by the Nazis. I never understood why it was built but at this point I was just trying to survive the climb.
She said it would take 30 minutes but I slowed us down. It was dark, very dark even though there was almost a full moon. The trees were so dense the light could not make it to our trail. I just tried to follow and not kill myself be going off the side or tripping and going head first into the ground. A heart attack was also a concern.
There were thousands of people. Some coming down, most going up. After a long, ardous climb we reached the top and my jaw dropped. On the other side of the Nazi building (Lis said there had been discussions about removing it but the decision was made to leave it) was a grass amphitheatre. It was filled with people, many torches, everyone drinking and having a very good time. Occasionally fireworks would go into the night and the crowd would roar its approval. There were people who pounded on drums giving an overall feeling of some sort of tribal happening. You could almost feel the spirits.
It was a sight unlike anything I had ever seen and I stood mesmerized. Also Lis and I were becoming more friendly and I thought this is really an amazing evening. We shared a bottle of wine and after an hour or so, started back down. There were people everywhere.
Different clumps of people would gather in different spots with a guitar trying to play by torch or candle. We stopped at one and I tried to make out what they were playing/singing. Then I recognized the song - Country Road by John Denver. I thought well that is perfect. A German mountain at 2 in the morning, on witches night and they are singing about West Virginia. Still can`t quite believe it.
After continuing down a bit Lis led us off the main path and onto a smaller one. She wanted us to see the old town of Heidleburg and the castle. It was a spectacular view and it seemed as though the mountain was alive. We finally made it back to the house and I thought how nice that the German and English person were talking about their history and leaving the US out of it. It can get very tiresome trying to explain our policies and actions. It was nice to hear about some older conflicts and not our current state of affairs.
We all collapsed and the next morning, Tim headed off to Leipzig - I thought. Liz made a great breakfast on her porch and then went to visit her 92 year old mother in Spreyer, the town where Lis was born. She showed me the cathedral where German emperors were crowned and then buried. It was quite impressive, especially since it was built in 30 years. Many of the other churches I have seen have taken centuries to build so 30 years is pretty quick.
We then went to her mothers home and had a very nice visit. She spoke some English and seemed very happy to see both Lis and me. After returning to Heidleburg we went to a charming little French restaurant where I had the best meal of my trip. Of couse most of the other meals have been sandwiches on trains so it isn´t saying that much, but it was very nice.
Even though it was late and we were both tired, Lis insisted we visit the castle. It was beautiful at night. Sitting on a hill overlooking the old town, but wrecked by the French several centuries ago.
She dropped me at the train station before returning to work and I thought how fortunate I have been. 1st to make the trip, then to see some amazing music and then all of the people I have met. It has been wonderful.
So I am on the train - Heidleburg to Mannheim - Mannheim to Frankfurt and I am trying to send a text to Tim so we can meet in Leipzig. I thought it had gone through but since I had about 30 minutes between trains I went to look for an internet cafe. Found one, checked my messages and then sent Tim an email.
Headed back into the station and started for the track to Leipzig. As I am walking I look to my right and guess who was there. Tim. We keep bumping into each other. He had stayed in Frankfurt intending to go over to Leipzig in the afternoon. He did not receive my text but got the email and was rushing over to meet me on the train. It is not that strange, I guess, but it kind of throws me to have people everywhere and by some chance, bumping into him again.
What a time - started in Brussels, on to Mannheim and then Heidleburg. It will be hard to forget these days.
On to Leipzig but that will have to wait. Heading to Berlin in a bit. Oh and Lis is coming to Berlin. Seems she cannot get enough of me. Go figure.
More later.....
After ending up in Brussels we had a day off and a decent hotel. While there, looking down we noticed thousands of scouts, many singing or chanting on their way to the train station. There was a huge hole in the sidewalk where there was construction going on and it looked like the throng would force one of the scouts to fall in. So we went down and fixed the barricade, doing our good deed for the day. Tim heard somewhere there would be a 100,000 scouts at their camp and I think we saw most of them.
The train from Brussels to Köln (Cologne) was quiet, smooth and comfortable. Trains leave on time and mostly arrive on time, except Italy, where they seem much more relaxed about time.
It is such a bother changing trains for Tim. He has so many posters that it is always a challenge, getting the bags off, loading them on the trolley and then finding the next train, and reversing the process. But he has done it so many times it is just part of the deal.
Got to Mannheim late and went straight to the show. Tim warned me it might be the toughest place in terms of police and other sellers. He said it should be OK but he made me wonder if this might be a night where the authorities and I would have a chat.
He took off to try to find a place to stash the posters and I started looking for a ticket. It is so strange to go the arena, without a ticket, but almost always coming up with one. Tonight would be no exception.
After talking to a few people who wanted face value I turned and started walking towards the other entrance. In seconds I spotted a lady who was holding a ticket in her hand and she quickly spotted me and we started to speak. She told me her friend cancelled at the last minute and she wanted to sell a 70 euro ticket for 50.
My normal idea is to pay no more than 40, so I asked if it was a good ticket. She said yes, front row. I had a look and could not tell for sure but it did say the front row of section 101 so I thought it would at least be the front row of something.
I paid her 40 and said I would see her inside. Sure enough 101 was in the very front, on the floor, and I just kept walking until I was at the front row. I could not believe my good fortune. Sitting in the next seat, the lady I bought the ticket from, was Lis. We had a very nice conversation during the show. I was as interested in talking with her as the show but it was an incredible show. The front row is very nice and I can safely recommend it.
So I told her I needed to leave the show a bit early to sell posters but that I would like to buy her a drink. I thought it would be too late that night but she said no, it was a holiday the next day and tonight was very special, witches night.
She said she lived in Heidleburg and we could go there, climb a mountain with other people and have an interesting sight. Little did I know. Climbing the mountain sounded like a bad idea but I thought there was a chance for romance, not to mention a night without a hotel bill.
So Tim, Lis and I piled into her Volkswagon convertible and headed to Heidleburg. Lis explained that witches night is a 2000 year old tradition and Tim, who is a student of history, said it could not be 2000 years. So after a bit of discussion I suggested we agree to disagree and then got to Lis´s house.
It was a huge house that has her office on the ground floor, she is an attorney, and then her living area on the 2nd floor with another apartment for her neice on the 3rd. It was wild. Huge ceilings, porches, hardwood floors - maybe original and a feeling of elegance. She had an entire wall filled with books and I thought this is a lady who likes to read and is intelligent.
As she changed to her hiking boots I tried to learn a bit more about what was coming but all she said was that many people, especially the yooung, do this every April 30th and on the top of the mountain was a structure built by the Nazis. I never understood why it was built but at this point I was just trying to survive the climb.
She said it would take 30 minutes but I slowed us down. It was dark, very dark even though there was almost a full moon. The trees were so dense the light could not make it to our trail. I just tried to follow and not kill myself be going off the side or tripping and going head first into the ground. A heart attack was also a concern.
There were thousands of people. Some coming down, most going up. After a long, ardous climb we reached the top and my jaw dropped. On the other side of the Nazi building (Lis said there had been discussions about removing it but the decision was made to leave it) was a grass amphitheatre. It was filled with people, many torches, everyone drinking and having a very good time. Occasionally fireworks would go into the night and the crowd would roar its approval. There were people who pounded on drums giving an overall feeling of some sort of tribal happening. You could almost feel the spirits.
It was a sight unlike anything I had ever seen and I stood mesmerized. Also Lis and I were becoming more friendly and I thought this is really an amazing evening. We shared a bottle of wine and after an hour or so, started back down. There were people everywhere.
Different clumps of people would gather in different spots with a guitar trying to play by torch or candle. We stopped at one and I tried to make out what they were playing/singing. Then I recognized the song - Country Road by John Denver. I thought well that is perfect. A German mountain at 2 in the morning, on witches night and they are singing about West Virginia. Still can`t quite believe it.
After continuing down a bit Lis led us off the main path and onto a smaller one. She wanted us to see the old town of Heidleburg and the castle. It was a spectacular view and it seemed as though the mountain was alive. We finally made it back to the house and I thought how nice that the German and English person were talking about their history and leaving the US out of it. It can get very tiresome trying to explain our policies and actions. It was nice to hear about some older conflicts and not our current state of affairs.
We all collapsed and the next morning, Tim headed off to Leipzig - I thought. Liz made a great breakfast on her porch and then went to visit her 92 year old mother in Spreyer, the town where Lis was born. She showed me the cathedral where German emperors were crowned and then buried. It was quite impressive, especially since it was built in 30 years. Many of the other churches I have seen have taken centuries to build so 30 years is pretty quick.
We then went to her mothers home and had a very nice visit. She spoke some English and seemed very happy to see both Lis and me. After returning to Heidleburg we went to a charming little French restaurant where I had the best meal of my trip. Of couse most of the other meals have been sandwiches on trains so it isn´t saying that much, but it was very nice.
Even though it was late and we were both tired, Lis insisted we visit the castle. It was beautiful at night. Sitting on a hill overlooking the old town, but wrecked by the French several centuries ago.
She dropped me at the train station before returning to work and I thought how fortunate I have been. 1st to make the trip, then to see some amazing music and then all of the people I have met. It has been wonderful.
So I am on the train - Heidleburg to Mannheim - Mannheim to Frankfurt and I am trying to send a text to Tim so we can meet in Leipzig. I thought it had gone through but since I had about 30 minutes between trains I went to look for an internet cafe. Found one, checked my messages and then sent Tim an email.
Headed back into the station and started for the track to Leipzig. As I am walking I look to my right and guess who was there. Tim. We keep bumping into each other. He had stayed in Frankfurt intending to go over to Leipzig in the afternoon. He did not receive my text but got the email and was rushing over to meet me on the train. It is not that strange, I guess, but it kind of throws me to have people everywhere and by some chance, bumping into him again.
What a time - started in Brussels, on to Mannheim and then Heidleburg. It will be hard to forget these days.
On to Leipzig but that will have to wait. Heading to Berlin in a bit. Oh and Lis is coming to Berlin. Seems she cannot get enough of me. Go figure.
More later.....
Sunday, April 29, 2007
Milan/Paris/Brussels
Lot to report - so much has happened, my brain is swirling.
Came over from Turin on Monday morning & found a hotel pretty quickly. Not too fancy but cheap. Just my style. After getting settled went out to explore and stopped in for a sandwich only with a middle Eastern flair. A huge spit of beef cooking while the cook cuts off hunks of meat, puts it into bread w/ veggies & chile sauce. Good & cheap.
While there, a young Pakistani named Dani, started a conversation with us. He said he and others always wanted to go to America but now, he feels America does not want him. His cousin lives in the Bay area but he does not feel welcome & knows everything changed on 9/11. I tried to convince him that America still wanted him to visit but I wondered how difficult a visa would be for someone like him. I'm guessing not to easy. But it was a fun conversation til he asked if I voted for Bush. No one I have met here, in 2005 or this trip has any use for W. They just cannot believe that America would have someone like him as our leader. I'm getting a bit tired trying to explain. But it is great to discuss these kinds of things with people and I have found it always seems like we get along great and would just hope our leaders could do a bit of a better job.
Tim & I headed to the show about 6 & and; I was convinced we were going to have to get lucky to get to the right spot. But I forgot. Tim has done this many times and knows his way around pretty good. So we ended up at the Dutch Forum with plenty of time to spare.
We agree that we would really like to see the show but if the price is too high, we pass. After several we finally got 2 on the floor for 45 euros. The guy was a tough negotiator but when we prepared to walk from the deal he finally accepted. The scalpers were out in force & were very aggressive but we were each in.
Tim always must find a place to stash the bag containing the posters before the show in some place where they won't be stolen. As he was trying to get some help from the local security an Italian policeman asked what he needed. When Tim explained, the kindly officer showed him where he could safely put the bag. He got in after the first song and all was good.
The show was one of the best I have ever seen. Some shows seem to have an energy or spirit the other shows lack. It seems people standing on the floor, the age of the crowd and the band's energy all combine to produce those moments which make all the travel, expense and lost sleep seem like such small prices to pay. It was extrordinary. Here' the setlist http://my.execpc.com/~billp61/042707s.html
The Italian crowd seemed to feel lucky to be there & roared their approval when Theme For The Common Man started. Then the band kicked into Cat's In The Cradle and things started to rock. When they recognized It Ain't Me, Babe, Bob and the boys grabbed hold and didn't let loose. When Tom Thumbs Blues started Tim said this was the best concert he'd seen so far, I nodded my head and thought this is why I came.
It's Alright, Ma was next and even though I have heard this chestnut more than most it had an urgency and emotion that was both rare & exciting. The guitar work was thrilling. The lead soaring, the 2nd guitar charging and everyone else hanging on for dear life. It I had any question about the show, this song quelled any doubts. I was staggered that such an old song, sung by a person who qualifies for Social Security could bring so much passion and fire. The crowd was going nuts and I thought who can blame them.
The people on the floor seem to bring the energy up and then it feeds to the band & the back in some sort of a self-reinforcing closed loop of energy & excitement. To Ramona was next & while this song is always a treat tonight it seemed to lack any buildup or climax but just sorted of meandered along. Nice but nothing to come to Italy for.
Tim said he just hoped to hear Nettie Moore & When The Deal Goes Down. I hoped he got his wish - because he's a great guy but also because they are among my favorites as well.
After a fun and appreciated Rollin' & Tumblin' he launched into Spirit On The Water. If memory serves the crowd was clapping and really into the guitar and vocals. Tim said he sang a verse twice on Stuck in Mobile but if he did, I missed it. Another song I have heard so many times but tonight the band was right on the money & Bob seemed to be living the words all over again, whatever it means.
Desolation Row, usually elicts a grown from me but - you guessed it - tonights version seemed even more biting and hard hitting. Enjoyed it from the beginning to end. Next came I'll Be Your Baby Tonight and my mind went to Rick & I singing this simple, heart-felt song and trying to get it right. Bob again seemed to be rembering the emotion he had when writting it and the crowd loved it.
Tim then had his first wish granted as When The Deal Goes Down started. It was sublime and the lighters came out - a throwback to the Before The Flood tour. It seemed a nice touch.
Great finish including Nettie Moore - and then ending the main show with Rolling Stone. Seemed to work much better than Blowin' In The Wind choice in Turin. The crowd was predictably going wild but we started out to get set for the poster buyers.
Sure enough; Tim's bag was right were he left it and he got me set up in what we hoped would be a prime spot. No other poster sellers but tons of tee shirts. I had a tough time knowing what to say. I figured most knew English but wondered what I'd think if there was some guy outside the Fox yelling in Italian something about posters.
People would say cuanto or ask how much & I'd try to answer but usually just hold up 5 fingers. They got the message and started buying like mad. I sold 120 or so & didn't discount more than 10. It's wild, like a feeding frenzy. They're trying to buy & I'm trying to take their money and get the right change back. Mostly I did but occasionally they would point out they had given me a 20 & were due some change. I'd try to apologize & then move them out of the way so the next batch could fling Euro notes at me.
Many young people wanted a poster and if they were old enough they bought one but sometimes their parents dug down for that strong currency - Tim said dollars used to be welcome but now the value has dropped too low.
So the crowd was gone & I suggested one of the waiting taxis but Tim thought there might be a chance to grab a ride with someone heading back to the city center. But no luck and I wondered if there would be a way back. Luckily another cab rolled up, we hopped in and watched the meter start to cut into our profits. Grabbed a Jack Daniels for me and a couple of beers for Tim and since the place was closing, stood outside on the sidewalk talking to some British folks who had been to the show.
Then we have a conversation with a guy from Naples who was holding one of our posters he had bought from us earlier. He didn't speak any English, but Tim understands and can communicate and I thought how odd. An Italian who doesn't understand English but loves Dylan. Hard to figure.
There is construction everywhere. Streets are torn up, cranes dot the skyline and buildings are being redone or fixed up. It is quite amazing. Wonder if it's due to the EU or some other cause.
Then came Stuck in Milano with the Zurich blues Again. Actually it was the first time and was caused by Tim's desire to avoid Switzerland & their tough border agents. What he does is can rub some countries the wrong way and I guess the Swiss are in that camp. I was supposed to go to Florence but called an audible and decided to head back to Paris in anticipation of setting up the last leg of the tour. We finally got on a train to Paris and pulled in just before midnight.
On the way we met a Chinese guy who turned out to be a basic researcher for an institute who uses satellite imagry to study volcanos. He was in Italy because they have 12 active volcanos. Fasinating conversation about the US, China & the world.
He said the US should not fear China, that China has never invaded another country and all they want is to build on their 5000 year old culture. He said harmony and solidarity were the most important goals and dontrasted that with the US & Europe where diversity and individuals were more highly prized. He said they could own building & businesses but not the land, that belonged to everyone. I got his email and hope Jerry can begin a dialogue with him prior to visiting. It was a wonderful conversation and I thought how fortunate to have had the chance to visit.
After an overnight in Paris we headed to Brussels where I am now. All around Europe are internet cafes. You can duck in, sign on & do whatever. In one cafe near the Sorborne in Paris almost all of the users where playing some kind of shooting game.
Tomorrow we're off to Mannheim and another show. Then Leipzig and Berlin and back to the land of Coca-Cola.
I really feel like each visit helps me get a bit better understanding of the people here and the other travellers like me. The more I learn, however, the less I feel I now. Seems like a contradiction but is real none the less.
More later.
Came over from Turin on Monday morning & found a hotel pretty quickly. Not too fancy but cheap. Just my style. After getting settled went out to explore and stopped in for a sandwich only with a middle Eastern flair. A huge spit of beef cooking while the cook cuts off hunks of meat, puts it into bread w/ veggies & chile sauce. Good & cheap.
While there, a young Pakistani named Dani, started a conversation with us. He said he and others always wanted to go to America but now, he feels America does not want him. His cousin lives in the Bay area but he does not feel welcome & knows everything changed on 9/11. I tried to convince him that America still wanted him to visit but I wondered how difficult a visa would be for someone like him. I'm guessing not to easy. But it was a fun conversation til he asked if I voted for Bush. No one I have met here, in 2005 or this trip has any use for W. They just cannot believe that America would have someone like him as our leader. I'm getting a bit tired trying to explain. But it is great to discuss these kinds of things with people and I have found it always seems like we get along great and would just hope our leaders could do a bit of a better job.
Tim & I headed to the show about 6 & and; I was convinced we were going to have to get lucky to get to the right spot. But I forgot. Tim has done this many times and knows his way around pretty good. So we ended up at the Dutch Forum with plenty of time to spare.
We agree that we would really like to see the show but if the price is too high, we pass. After several we finally got 2 on the floor for 45 euros. The guy was a tough negotiator but when we prepared to walk from the deal he finally accepted. The scalpers were out in force & were very aggressive but we were each in.
Tim always must find a place to stash the bag containing the posters before the show in some place where they won't be stolen. As he was trying to get some help from the local security an Italian policeman asked what he needed. When Tim explained, the kindly officer showed him where he could safely put the bag. He got in after the first song and all was good.
The show was one of the best I have ever seen. Some shows seem to have an energy or spirit the other shows lack. It seems people standing on the floor, the age of the crowd and the band's energy all combine to produce those moments which make all the travel, expense and lost sleep seem like such small prices to pay. It was extrordinary. Here' the setlist http://my.execpc.com/~billp61/042707s.html
The Italian crowd seemed to feel lucky to be there & roared their approval when Theme For The Common Man started. Then the band kicked into Cat's In The Cradle and things started to rock. When they recognized It Ain't Me, Babe, Bob and the boys grabbed hold and didn't let loose. When Tom Thumbs Blues started Tim said this was the best concert he'd seen so far, I nodded my head and thought this is why I came.
It's Alright, Ma was next and even though I have heard this chestnut more than most it had an urgency and emotion that was both rare & exciting. The guitar work was thrilling. The lead soaring, the 2nd guitar charging and everyone else hanging on for dear life. It I had any question about the show, this song quelled any doubts. I was staggered that such an old song, sung by a person who qualifies for Social Security could bring so much passion and fire. The crowd was going nuts and I thought who can blame them.
The people on the floor seem to bring the energy up and then it feeds to the band & the back in some sort of a self-reinforcing closed loop of energy & excitement. To Ramona was next & while this song is always a treat tonight it seemed to lack any buildup or climax but just sorted of meandered along. Nice but nothing to come to Italy for.
Tim said he just hoped to hear Nettie Moore & When The Deal Goes Down. I hoped he got his wish - because he's a great guy but also because they are among my favorites as well.
After a fun and appreciated Rollin' & Tumblin' he launched into Spirit On The Water. If memory serves the crowd was clapping and really into the guitar and vocals. Tim said he sang a verse twice on Stuck in Mobile but if he did, I missed it. Another song I have heard so many times but tonight the band was right on the money & Bob seemed to be living the words all over again, whatever it means.
Desolation Row, usually elicts a grown from me but - you guessed it - tonights version seemed even more biting and hard hitting. Enjoyed it from the beginning to end. Next came I'll Be Your Baby Tonight and my mind went to Rick & I singing this simple, heart-felt song and trying to get it right. Bob again seemed to be rembering the emotion he had when writting it and the crowd loved it.
Tim then had his first wish granted as When The Deal Goes Down started. It was sublime and the lighters came out - a throwback to the Before The Flood tour. It seemed a nice touch.
Great finish including Nettie Moore - and then ending the main show with Rolling Stone. Seemed to work much better than Blowin' In The Wind choice in Turin. The crowd was predictably going wild but we started out to get set for the poster buyers.
Sure enough; Tim's bag was right were he left it and he got me set up in what we hoped would be a prime spot. No other poster sellers but tons of tee shirts. I had a tough time knowing what to say. I figured most knew English but wondered what I'd think if there was some guy outside the Fox yelling in Italian something about posters.
People would say cuanto or ask how much & I'd try to answer but usually just hold up 5 fingers. They got the message and started buying like mad. I sold 120 or so & didn't discount more than 10. It's wild, like a feeding frenzy. They're trying to buy & I'm trying to take their money and get the right change back. Mostly I did but occasionally they would point out they had given me a 20 & were due some change. I'd try to apologize & then move them out of the way so the next batch could fling Euro notes at me.
Many young people wanted a poster and if they were old enough they bought one but sometimes their parents dug down for that strong currency - Tim said dollars used to be welcome but now the value has dropped too low.
So the crowd was gone & I suggested one of the waiting taxis but Tim thought there might be a chance to grab a ride with someone heading back to the city center. But no luck and I wondered if there would be a way back. Luckily another cab rolled up, we hopped in and watched the meter start to cut into our profits. Grabbed a Jack Daniels for me and a couple of beers for Tim and since the place was closing, stood outside on the sidewalk talking to some British folks who had been to the show.
Then we have a conversation with a guy from Naples who was holding one of our posters he had bought from us earlier. He didn't speak any English, but Tim understands and can communicate and I thought how odd. An Italian who doesn't understand English but loves Dylan. Hard to figure.
There is construction everywhere. Streets are torn up, cranes dot the skyline and buildings are being redone or fixed up. It is quite amazing. Wonder if it's due to the EU or some other cause.
Then came Stuck in Milano with the Zurich blues Again. Actually it was the first time and was caused by Tim's desire to avoid Switzerland & their tough border agents. What he does is can rub some countries the wrong way and I guess the Swiss are in that camp. I was supposed to go to Florence but called an audible and decided to head back to Paris in anticipation of setting up the last leg of the tour. We finally got on a train to Paris and pulled in just before midnight.
On the way we met a Chinese guy who turned out to be a basic researcher for an institute who uses satellite imagry to study volcanos. He was in Italy because they have 12 active volcanos. Fasinating conversation about the US, China & the world.
He said the US should not fear China, that China has never invaded another country and all they want is to build on their 5000 year old culture. He said harmony and solidarity were the most important goals and dontrasted that with the US & Europe where diversity and individuals were more highly prized. He said they could own building & businesses but not the land, that belonged to everyone. I got his email and hope Jerry can begin a dialogue with him prior to visiting. It was a wonderful conversation and I thought how fortunate to have had the chance to visit.
After an overnight in Paris we headed to Brussels where I am now. All around Europe are internet cafes. You can duck in, sign on & do whatever. In one cafe near the Sorborne in Paris almost all of the users where playing some kind of shooting game.
Tomorrow we're off to Mannheim and another show. Then Leipzig and Berlin and back to the land of Coca-Cola.
I really feel like each visit helps me get a bit better understanding of the people here and the other travellers like me. The more I learn, however, the less I feel I now. Seems like a contradiction but is real none the less.
More later.
Friday, April 27, 2007
Turin
What a night! My long lost friend Tim, who I met on my trip in 2005, was on the same tram stand as me on the way to concert. It was great to see him and we caught up on things since then.
He carries around hundreds of posters and then sells them after the concert. He offered to 'hire' me again and I went back to work.
But 1st the show. It was lightly attended and getting a cheap ticket was pretty easy. Bob and the boys sounded OK but the accoustics were not the best. A beautiful Spanish Boots and My Back Pages were highlights and I can not seem to stop singing Spirit on the Water. Set list is here http://my.execpc.com/~billp61/042607s.html
I met Mick from England who was celebrating a birthday. He is a friend of Tim's and has seen 185 shows and another guy from Holland who is close to 200. So you see I am really not that crazy. Well OK, maybe a bit.
The smells outside the venue in Italy are incredible. They set up mobile kitchens and cook there. It is so good. We had a couple of drinks to celebrate Mick's birthday and then got inside.
I ducked out before the encore and met with Tim outside. He got me positioned and got ready to sell. He gave me 80 posters and said I should try for 5 Euros each. He charges me 2 euros so I was ready to make some money.
People started dribbling out and I got no takers. Then they started buying. Ended up selling 56, almost all at 5. A few got a deal but not many. Tim said to just give him 100 euros and so I made about 160. Not bad for 30 minutes work.
Reminded me of a line from a Dylan song - my pockets are loaded but I'm spending every dime. It is great fun. Immediate gratification. They give you 5 you give them a poster. I have a few ideas on improving our merchandising but that's for another post.
It was so great to see Tim again. We found a place to get a drink, had to get it to go, or as they say here, take-away, and went back to my room and talked until 3AM. I could not sleep past 7:30 and am paying the price. But it's OK. Great seeing him, selling the poster and talking politics.
He is a bit of a socialist so we always have plenty to talk about.
I told him his business sounded like the way they describe poker, a hard way to make an easy living. It is not so bad for him except hauling the posters from city to city. I have ideas on that as well.
Great time, although my sightseeing was limited.
More later.
He carries around hundreds of posters and then sells them after the concert. He offered to 'hire' me again and I went back to work.
But 1st the show. It was lightly attended and getting a cheap ticket was pretty easy. Bob and the boys sounded OK but the accoustics were not the best. A beautiful Spanish Boots and My Back Pages were highlights and I can not seem to stop singing Spirit on the Water. Set list is here http://my.execpc.com/~billp61/042607s.html
I met Mick from England who was celebrating a birthday. He is a friend of Tim's and has seen 185 shows and another guy from Holland who is close to 200. So you see I am really not that crazy. Well OK, maybe a bit.
The smells outside the venue in Italy are incredible. They set up mobile kitchens and cook there. It is so good. We had a couple of drinks to celebrate Mick's birthday and then got inside.
I ducked out before the encore and met with Tim outside. He got me positioned and got ready to sell. He gave me 80 posters and said I should try for 5 Euros each. He charges me 2 euros so I was ready to make some money.
People started dribbling out and I got no takers. Then they started buying. Ended up selling 56, almost all at 5. A few got a deal but not many. Tim said to just give him 100 euros and so I made about 160. Not bad for 30 minutes work.
Reminded me of a line from a Dylan song - my pockets are loaded but I'm spending every dime. It is great fun. Immediate gratification. They give you 5 you give them a poster. I have a few ideas on improving our merchandising but that's for another post.
It was so great to see Tim again. We found a place to get a drink, had to get it to go, or as they say here, take-away, and went back to my room and talked until 3AM. I could not sleep past 7:30 and am paying the price. But it's OK. Great seeing him, selling the poster and talking politics.
He is a bit of a socialist so we always have plenty to talk about.
I told him his business sounded like the way they describe poker, a hard way to make an easy living. It is not so bad for him except hauling the posters from city to city. I have ideas on that as well.
Great time, although my sightseeing was limited.
More later.
Thursday, April 26, 2007
Torino (Turin)
Rolled in on the night train at 7:30 this morning. It was supposed to arrive at 5:30 but as reliable as the German trains are, the Italian trains are not. Oh well, no hurry.
Did a bunch of cruising around Paris yesterday before catching the train. We had a veritable UN in our sleeping car. A guy from Japan hauling around samples of fashion accessories, a doctor from Argentina and a lady who only spoke French and said she was from Africa.
We solved most of the world's tough problems before we crashed. Unfortunately the Japanese guy snored like crazy. Luckily my iPod was charged so I was able to block most of the racket.
Had my first splurge on a hotel - near the train station and very nice. I needed a shower in the worst way and it was wonderful. It was so warm in Paris, and I walked so much, well - let's just say I needed the shower bad.
The show tonight is at 9PM. Kind of a late start but it's OK. I am going to head back to the room and take a nap - I know pretty exciting but my head feels a bit scrambled.
Turin seems very cool. High end stores, wonderful food and stylish people. Italy seems very cool. Learning Italian would go a long ways to helping me get around - but all I know is gracie and ciao.
Tomorrow back to Milan and then Florence. Loving the trip, but missing you all.
More later.
Did a bunch of cruising around Paris yesterday before catching the train. We had a veritable UN in our sleeping car. A guy from Japan hauling around samples of fashion accessories, a doctor from Argentina and a lady who only spoke French and said she was from Africa.
We solved most of the world's tough problems before we crashed. Unfortunately the Japanese guy snored like crazy. Luckily my iPod was charged so I was able to block most of the racket.
Had my first splurge on a hotel - near the train station and very nice. I needed a shower in the worst way and it was wonderful. It was so warm in Paris, and I walked so much, well - let's just say I needed the shower bad.
The show tonight is at 9PM. Kind of a late start but it's OK. I am going to head back to the room and take a nap - I know pretty exciting but my head feels a bit scrambled.
Turin seems very cool. High end stores, wonderful food and stylish people. Italy seems very cool. Learning Italian would go a long ways to helping me get around - but all I know is gracie and ciao.
Tomorrow back to Milan and then Florence. Loving the trip, but missing you all.
More later.
Wednesday, April 25, 2007
Paris
What an amazing place. It does not seem like it should work but it seems to very well.
Everyone is always in a hurry. A big hurry. Except me. I have been spending most of my time getting lost, somewhat on purpose. Rather than hitting all of the top spots, some of which I have already seen, I just wander around, trying to get a sense of the city and how people here live.
The plusses - great food, drink, culture and mass transit - the metro is a wonderful way to get around.
The minuses - it is very warm, time is short & it is expensive. But how I love this place. I can imagine living here - at least for a while. Also, these keyboards are about to drive me crazy.
Yesterday I walked & walked. Many do & they mostly seem in good shape. Even though the metro is very handy, you still do a bunch of walking.
I have been putting together a list of ideas or suggestions for Jerry & his friend Kevin who may visit this summer. It is somewhat staightforward but there are several hints I hope to share with them.
Antoine was my host for the past 2 nights. He was very friendly but since he has hosted so many surfers he has certain ideas about how it should go. I tried my best to be a good guest & hope it was OK for him. We just met for lunch near the Bastille. It was excellent food at a resonable price. Coucous with sausage or chicken, some kind of soup that went over everything, coffee & wine for 18 euros.
He sells different kinds of food to grocery stores. Last night he was delayed so I had a couple of drinks in his town - Chelles - while waiting for him. It seemed like Cheers, everyone knew each other, except yours truly. It really made me want to learn French.
Today I have been wandering around, just trying to learn the city. It has been here for over 2000 years. The history just jumps out at you.
I leave this evening on a night train to Milan. From there I plan to go right away to Turin. Then back to Milan before heading to Florence.
It is so cool to be able to stop at a cafe, have a coffee while resting, watch the people streaming by & then back to it. Most restaurants are open to the outside, so it seems like you are always eating in the open air. I really like it and wish there were more outdoor eating places in the States.
More later.
Everyone is always in a hurry. A big hurry. Except me. I have been spending most of my time getting lost, somewhat on purpose. Rather than hitting all of the top spots, some of which I have already seen, I just wander around, trying to get a sense of the city and how people here live.
The plusses - great food, drink, culture and mass transit - the metro is a wonderful way to get around.
The minuses - it is very warm, time is short & it is expensive. But how I love this place. I can imagine living here - at least for a while. Also, these keyboards are about to drive me crazy.
Yesterday I walked & walked. Many do & they mostly seem in good shape. Even though the metro is very handy, you still do a bunch of walking.
I have been putting together a list of ideas or suggestions for Jerry & his friend Kevin who may visit this summer. It is somewhat staightforward but there are several hints I hope to share with them.
Antoine was my host for the past 2 nights. He was very friendly but since he has hosted so many surfers he has certain ideas about how it should go. I tried my best to be a good guest & hope it was OK for him. We just met for lunch near the Bastille. It was excellent food at a resonable price. Coucous with sausage or chicken, some kind of soup that went over everything, coffee & wine for 18 euros.
He sells different kinds of food to grocery stores. Last night he was delayed so I had a couple of drinks in his town - Chelles - while waiting for him. It seemed like Cheers, everyone knew each other, except yours truly. It really made me want to learn French.
Today I have been wandering around, just trying to learn the city. It has been here for over 2000 years. The history just jumps out at you.
I leave this evening on a night train to Milan. From there I plan to go right away to Turin. Then back to Milan before heading to Florence.
It is so cool to be able to stop at a cafe, have a coffee while resting, watch the people streaming by & then back to it. Most restaurants are open to the outside, so it seems like you are always eating in the open air. I really like it and wish there were more outdoor eating places in the States.
More later.
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